Wildlife Is Thriving In Rwanda’s National Parks Again

 


Three years ago when I walked from my room to the camp-fire at Rwanda’s Ruzizi Tented Lodge, I worried about running into a hippo in the dark, jumping at the swoosh of their ridiculous, low-slung bellies in the grass. Returning to the same lodge in Akagera National Park last June, I have even more reason to be on guard. Rwanda has since been transformed into a Big Five destination with the reintroduction of lion in 2015, and, more recently, rhino.

 

“Big Five? Nah. This is Big Six country,” says my safari fixer, Alice Daunt, whose travel agency looks after 100-odd high-profile clients. “If you include Rwanda’s mountain gorillas, we’re talking the Big Six for the Big Spenders.” Daunt is referring to one of the most dramatic turnaround stories in the annals of safari land, with millions of dollars invested since 2011 in wildlife security within Akagera, overseen by the conservation NGO African Parks. (The spend includes an antipoaching helicopter, ranger training, and a pack of Belgian Malinois and Dutch shepherd tracker dogs gifted by the Howard G. Buffett Foundation.) As of this writing, there has been no poaching in the park this year. I am dumbfounded. The last time I visited Rwanda, the snare pile in Akagera’s HQ reached almost to my chin. That was during the 20th anniversary of the 1994 genocide, when an estimated 800,000 Rwandans were murdered; Akagera’s long grass had for years served as a hideout for the rebel fighters, led by future president Paul Kagame.

 

Arrive in Kigali and have a juicy burger brunch next to the pool at Hôtel des Mille Collines (aka Hotel Rwanda, where during the genocide the hotel manager, Paul Rusesabagina, sheltered more than a thousand people). Visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial, vital to understanding the context of where you are. Drive two and a half hours to Akagera National Park, staying one night at Ruzizi Tented Lodge on the edge of Lake Ihema, then two at Karenge Bush Camp for your Big Five safari. Spend a full day driving to Volcanoes National Park—don’t be tempted to use a helicopter; the drive is a breathtaking lens on everyday Rwanda—and two nights at Bisate Lodge. For your gorilla trek, request to see the Susa primates if you’re fit, or the Sabyinyo group if you’d rather do a shorter hike. Finish with two nights at Virunga Lodge, for its views of Lake Burera and its reflective feel: terraced rose gardens, private parterres, and a library with a roaring fire

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