Wildlife Is Thriving In Rwanda’s National Parks Again
Three years ago when I walked
from my room to the camp-fire at Rwanda’s Ruzizi Tented Lodge, I worried about
running into a hippo in the dark, jumping at the swoosh of their ridiculous,
low-slung bellies in the grass. Returning to the same lodge in Akagera National
Park last June, I have even more reason to be on guard. Rwanda has since been
transformed into a Big Five destination with the reintroduction of lion in
2015, and, more recently, rhino.
“Big Five? Nah. This is Big
Six country,” says my safari fixer, Alice Daunt, whose travel agency looks
after 100-odd high-profile clients. “If you include Rwanda’s mountain gorillas,
we’re talking the Big Six for the Big Spenders.” Daunt is referring to one of
the most dramatic turnaround stories in the annals of safari land, with
millions of dollars invested since 2011 in wildlife security within Akagera,
overseen by the conservation NGO African Parks. (The spend includes an
antipoaching helicopter, ranger training, and a pack of Belgian Malinois and
Dutch shepherd tracker dogs gifted by the Howard G. Buffett Foundation.) As of
this writing, there has been no poaching in the park this year. I am
dumbfounded. The last time I visited Rwanda, the snare pile in Akagera’s HQ
reached almost to my chin. That was during the 20th anniversary of the 1994
genocide, when an estimated 800,000 Rwandans were murdered; Akagera’s long
grass had for years served as a hideout for the rebel fighters, led by future
president Paul Kagame.
Arrive in Kigali and have a
juicy burger brunch next to the pool at Hôtel des Mille Collines (aka Hotel
Rwanda, where during the genocide the hotel manager, Paul Rusesabagina,
sheltered more than a thousand people). Visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial,
vital to understanding the context of where you are. Drive two and a half hours
to Akagera National Park, staying one night at Ruzizi Tented Lodge on the edge
of Lake Ihema, then two at Karenge Bush Camp for your Big Five safari. Spend a
full day driving to Volcanoes National Park—don’t be tempted to use a
helicopter; the drive is a breathtaking lens on everyday Rwanda—and
two nights at Bisate Lodge. For your gorilla trek, request to see the Susa
primates if you’re fit, or the Sabyinyo group if you’d rather do a shorter
hike. Finish with two nights at Virunga Lodge, for its views of Lake Burera and
its reflective feel: terraced rose gardens, private parterres, and a library
with a roaring fire
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